Want to make an all-natural laundry detergent as effective as commercial detergent? Your search is over. Here’s how to make the best DIY homemade laundry detergent. And all you need is 3 key ingredients and 15 minutes.
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11 years ago, I started making the switch to natural cleaning products, including laundry detergent!
At that time, the majority of recipes online called for a bar of fels naptha, washing soda, and Borax. But there was one problem: our clothes came out with chalky white spots.
So I made a simple swap: liquid Dr. Bronner’s castile soap instead of the fels naptha soap bar. With this one change, the detergent worked just as good as Tide.
This recipe is non-toxic, fights stains better than commercial detergent, and is cheap! I’ve been making this liquid laundry detergent for over 11 years (originally created in 2014) because of its extraordinary cleaning power.
Homemade Laundry Detergent Benefits
Before You Get Started: What You’ll Need
Ingredients
This recipe, made with simple ingredients, makes 1 gallon of homemade soap.
- 1 cup borax – freshens, deodorizes, and lifts dirt and stains
- 1 cup washing soda – freshens and deodorizes
- 1 cup liquid castile soap or Sal Suds – the main cleaning agent, lifts dirt and cleans
- 50 drops essential oil – optional for a scent
- 15 cups water – distilled water, found in any grocery store, is best as it doesn’t contain containments found in tap or filtered water
Equipment
- Large saucepan or Dutch oven – enough to hold 1 gallon of liquid, 15 cups
- Storage Jars – such as 2 half gallon-size glass mason jars, 1 gallon-size jar, or reuse an old detergent bottle
Thicker Detergent Tip: This recipe calls for 15 cups of water. If you’d like a thicker, more concentrated soap, use 10-12 cups of water.
How to Make Homemade Laundry Detergent: Recipe Steps
- Step 1 Boil 6 Cups of Water: In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, bring 6 cups of water to a slight boil. Once the water begins to boil, turn off the burner.
- Step 2 Add Borax, Washing Soda, More Water, and Castile Soap: Add the Borax and washing soda. Stir to dissolve. Then add 9 cups of room-temperature water and 1 cup of liquid castile soap. Give the ingredients a stir to combine.
- Step 3 Cool for 5-10 Minutes: Allow the soap to cool for a few minutes before pouring into one large gallon-size jar or smaller containers, like quart-size jars. Make sure your jar(s) are heat-safe. If not, wait until the soap is cool, then spoon the soap into the jar(s).
- Step 4 Add Essential Oil For Scent: Add an essential oil of choice (if using) to the soap (now in the jar) and stir to combine with the detergent.
What to Avoid Doing
- Baking Soda – Don’t use baking soda in place of washing soda. Washing soda has a different chemical composition and will not work in this recipe. It is NOT a substitute.
- Dish Soap – Don’t use other dish soaps in place of the castile soap. Dish soap will cause the soap to have too many bubbles in the wash.
- Lack of Suds – Don’t assume that a lack of suds and bubbles means the soap isn’t effective. Suds and bubbles don’t equal clean.
- Plastic Containers – If you’re reusing an old detergent bottle for storage, make sure the laundry detergent is fully cool before adding to a plastic container.
- Heat-Safe Glass – Use a heat-resistant glass jar (if using glass for storage), and also allow the detergent to cool a bit (about 10 minutes) before adding it.
- Essential Oils – The essential oil will add a subtle fragrance, but shouldn’t be added until the soap cools as heat will cause the essential oil to evaporate.
How to Prevent Chunky or Gelled Detergent
After a few days the liquid laundry detergent may clump or gel. This is a completely normal chemical reaction that is usually caused when the outside temperature is cooler. There’s no way to completely prevent this from happening; however, one option is to use more water (2-3 cups more) to make a less concentrated soap.
The laundry soap is 100% usable if it gels up (l actually love this form). Simply scoop the detergent from the container and add to the washer.
Key Takeaway: Whether the laundry detergent gels up or remains liquid, it’s 100% effective and usable in both forms.
How to Use This Liquid Laundry Soap
The detergent is ready to use immediately after making. And may be stored for later use.
- Give the jar a good shake or stir (with a long spoon) before use.
- Use this detergent just as you would any laundry soap to clean clothes.
- This homemade liquid laundry soap is highly concentrated, which means you need only a tiny amount to get a dirty job done.
- For top-loading washer machines, use 1/8-1/4 cup.
- For an HE front loader, use 1-2 tablespoons.
- Add the detergent directly to your washer or the laundry soap compartment.
Can I use this in an HE washer?
I do, so I can only speak to my personal experience. I use 1-2 tablespoons per load. If it’s in gel form, add it straight to the washer on top of the clothes.
Always consult your machine’s user guide before using any laundry detergent to know what your machine can and can’t handle.
How long does this recipe last?
- Use the soap within 1 month.
- Store in your laundry room, at room temperature.
- Learn more about the safety of making your own natural cleaners.
FAQs
- Can I use a castile soap bar instead of liquid castile soap? Yes, you can. Use a cheese grater to grate a bar of castile soap into the hot water (along with the borax and washing soda). Stir and continue to boil the ingredients to dissolve fully (takes about 10 minutes). I also use a bar of castile soap to make powder laundry soap.
- Is it normal that it’s more watery than soapy? Yes, this is normal. For a thicker, more concentrated detergent, there are two options: use Sal Suds instead of castile soap OR reduce the water to 10-12 cups for a more concentrated detergent.
- The detergent is chunky (or gelled) after cooling, is that normal? Yes, this is normal. Depending on your home’s temperature, the soap may be more liquid or even chunky (like a gel). Both are normal and usable!
- My laundry soap didn’t gel. What happened? If your environment is cooler, your laundry soap may gel after cooling. Or it may not. This is normal. Both forms are 100% good and usable. A reader recently shared this tip you can try as well, “I also like the the detergent to be more gelatinous and I use my immersion blender for a few seconds after it is cool to whip it. It turns white and jelly.”
- Is borax safe? Borax is a debated ingredient in naturally-minded circles. I personally don’t see any reason to avoid it. This borax article from Wellness Mama has fantastic information.
- Can I use this soap to lift stains? Yes, you can. You can either add the garment to the washer or add the garment to your kitchen sink with the soap and water and soak the garment to lift the stains. Or, apply the soap directly to the stain and scrub. If you’re dealing with tough stain, I recommend using this homemade stain remover before washing the garment.
- Does this soap work with hard water? Yes, it does. I have hard water and this soap works great. You may want to use this laundry softener recipe as well.
Conclusion: Does this detergent work?
People always ask me, “Will homemade soap work as well as a store-bought product?” The answer, “YES! It will.”
My daughter’s chocolate stain on the left and after using this detergent in the wash. The stain lifted and the shirt was saved. If you need need extra help lifting a stain, you can also use my homemade stain remover first.
The Best Natural Laundry Detergent Brands: I’ve researched and tried many different laundry soap brands and narrowed down the best 11 brands!
Homemade Liquid Laundry Detergent Recipe
Equipment
- 1 large saucepan or dutch oven (big enough to hold 15 cups of liquid)
- storage jars (such as 2 half gallon-size glass mason jars, 1 gallon-size jar, or reuse an old detergent bottle) for storing the laundry soap
Ingredients
- 1 cup borax
- 1 cup washing soda
- 1 cup liquid castile soap unscented or scented
- 15 cups water divided
- 50 drops essential oil optional for scent
Instructions
- In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, bring 6 cups of water to a slight boil. Once the water begins to boil, turn off the burner.
- Add the Borax and washing soda. Stir to dissolve. Then add 9 cups of room-temperature water and 1 cup of liquid castile soap. Give the ingredients a stir to combine.
- Allow the soap to cool for a few minutes before pouring into one large gallon-size jar or smaller containers, like quart-size jars. Make sure your jar(s) are heat-safe. If not, wait until the soap is cool, then spoon the soap into the jar(s).If you're reusing an old detergent bottle, make sure the soap is fully cool before adding to a plastic container.
- Add an essential oil of choice (if using) to the soap (now in the jar) and stir to combine with the detergent. The essential oil will add a subtle fragrance, but shouldn't be added until the soap cools as heat will cause the essential oil to evaporate.
- As the soap sits, the mixture may form into a gel and become chunky. There may also be liquid and gel separation, simply stir or shake. This is normal.
How to Use
- For top loading washer machines, use 1/8-1/4 cup. For a front loader, use 1-2 tablespoons. Add the detergent to the liquid soap compartment of the washer.
- Stain Treatment – Use a small amount of soap directly on the stain, scrub or rub the stain with a cloth. Repeat as needed, then wash the garment. Or use this stain remover spray.
- Laundry Softener – This laundry detergent may be used with a fabric softener. I use vinegar added to the softener compartment or this salt scent booster & softener added directly to the wash basin before running a wash cycle.
very helpful. Thanks.
It seems Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap alone is already very good for laundry, why your add the other ingredients? TO make it cheaper or better result?
Thanks.
Castile soap is very concentrated, and when that concentrate is diluted and combined with washing soda and borax, I believe it cleans clothes even better than it does on its own (taking away odors, brightening, and helping to lift stains). That’s my personal preference. You could definitely use a small amount of Castile soap on its own in the washer.
sorry, to buy from the store. wrong spelling
To buy from sture, do you know any good brand for detergent?
Liquid is better. THanks
I’d check out the EWG for the cleanest brands currently on the market: http://www.ewg.org/guides/subcategories/49-LaundryDetergentHE.
I put the gel in the power portion of the detergent tray because the liquid potion is even harder to get through.
The gel blocked the detergent tray and could not get into the clothes in the washer. Where do you put the gel? Just dump on the cloth or in the tray? Thanks.
Hey Marina, I put mine in the tray dispenser. If it’s not working in the tray, I would try putting in the washer.
Do you have dishwasher tablet receipt? I could not find it. THanks
I saw the other receipt that you talked about borax is similar to baking soda. So can I use same amount of baking soda to replace borax in all your receipts? Thanks
Hey Marina, There’s a recipe in my cleaning book, but nothing on the blog (yet). I personally don’t make dishwasher soap right now just due to time. I use Seventh Generation Free and Clear Packs (they receive an A on the EWG). Baking soda is different than borax, so I’m not sure about using it as a sub–you’re welcome to try it.
Your receipt already have washing soda. Does it means I use double amount of washing soda if I do not use borax?
Will baking soda a good replace for borax?
THanks.
Yes, I would try doubling the washing soda.
If I do not use borax, what can replace it and how much should I use? Thanks.
Hey Marina, You can try replacing the borax with washing soda (same amount). Keep in mind, without the borax, the laundry soap isn’t as effective (in my opinion).
I am almost done with my first batch of this lqiuid laundry soap, also a convert from Tide. I have a large capacity HE machine and use 2-3 Tbsp of this soap, depending on load size and soil level, and have never had a problem with suds. However, in the beginning, my husband complained of white flecks on the inside of his underwear. Solution: Microwave the gel for a few seconds so that it turns into a liquid. I spoon the gel into an Oxo 4 Tbsp measure, MW 8 or 9 secs max–it will foam up; once the foam goes down, I MW another 4 secs or so, give it a stir, and pour it into the dispenser–no more white flecks. In the beginning, I used a narrow-topped jug, and shaking it created a lot of foam on top. Using a wide-mouth jug makes it easier to dispense it without getting mostly foam. Rough fabric is caused by residual soap, so for “fabric softener”, I pour vinegar into the dispenser, which helps to adequately rinse it out. BTW, fabric softener should not be used on towels, as the softening agent prevents them from being absorbant. I have recently begun to use wool balls–I will definitely try essential oil on one the next time!
When my girls were babies (1960’s), disposable diapers were horrible at best (oh, were they aweful!), so I only used them when on vacation. At home, it was cloth diapers and diaper liners (to prevent poopie staining). I would make a solution of warm water and Borax in a diaper pail and put the day’s diapers into it. The next morning, I would pour the whole thing into the washer, set the spin cycle followed by a rinse and spin, then launder as usual with detergent and some Borax. Result? Clean, odor-free, and stain-free diapers. One daughter’s urine would sometimes smell of ammonia, and that smell would be totally gone. My sister-in-law was amazed at how white the diapers always were. Glad some people are using cloth diapers–disposables need to be kept out of the landfills! Plus it is more cost-effective.
Would it be possible to leave out a little water and make it more concentrated? Also, how many loads would you say that you get out of this recipe?
Hey Cassie, Yes, definitely. About 50 loads.
I’ve made this twice now. After a couple years of a powder I had to go back to tide but now because of this recipe I’m back to making my own. Love the liquid since I do a lot of cold water washing. I did notice that the more I agitate my detergent by getting some the more it will gel.
That’s awesome, Kendi. I’m so glad you’re enjoying homemade laundry soap again. And thank you for sharing about the gel–very interesting!
Wow, this honesty thing is awesome!
Hi Kristin!
First of all, thanks for creating this website! I have been so inspired by you!! Question: I made the liquid laundry detergent soap, and when I took out bottle #2 to shake it (it became a dense gel), I noticed white ‘ strings’ and round shapes in the liquid, floating around. Do you think they are bacteria? Should I get rid of this batch? I would post a link with a picture, but I am not sure that is allowed in this comment section.
Lots of hugs from Montreal!
Sarah
Hey Sarah, That happens quite a bit to my soap, too. It’s normal and safe from my experience :). It’s just a reaction to the process. PS: Feel free to share a link/photo :).
And I’m os glad you’re enjoying the blog!
Hey Kristin,
Thanks for the quick answer!
By the way, I am quite star struck right now 😛
Here’s a link to a picture of my soap:
https://goo.gl/photos/XbJhA9hTuVuiPJGU8
I am happy I don’t have to throw it out!!
Cheers,
Sarah
You’re so sweet :), Sarah. Thank you for sharing the photo. Yes, my soap looks like that quite often, depending on the cooling process and outside temperature. I haven’t had any issue with using it.
Can I make the laundry soap into detergent by using sals suds to replace the castile soap?
Hey April, Yes, you can. Sal Suds does produce a lot more bubbles than Castile soap, so won’t need as much (maybe even a quarter of the soap used in this recipe).
Kristin,
Is this soap a low sudsing soap? HE washers will get what is called suds locked if a high sudsing soap is used.
Thank you
Laurel
Hey Laurel, Yes, it is a low sudsing soap.
Hi, i was wondering, is there a substitute for castile soap? I can’t find it in South Africa. You would do me a solid
Thank you so much for this recipe!! I’m wondering what the shelf life of this is when using tap water.
Hey Lisa, If you boil the water for about 15 minutes before adding the dry ingredients, I think the soap should last about a month or so.
Hello Kristin, thank you for this recipe. I really enjoy your blog. I have 3 questions. Is borax color safe, like for black colors. My gym chothes is very stinky. I’m not a dirty person, but I can not get my gym chothes to small fresh. Can I use baking soda? Would baking Soda be safe for black colors?
Hey Elba, I’m so glad you’re enjoying the blog. Yes, borax, baking soda, and washing soda are all color-safe materials. The only natural ingredient, that I use on the blog, to avoid around colors is hydrogen peroxide since it can bleach clothes.
I just tried this recipe and I love it! It works just as well as my expensive store bought laundry detergent. thank you!!!
I have tried a few recipes from your blog and I have loved them all!
You might be the best person to ask this from:
Can you come up with a natural recipe to replace the (ever so famous on pintrest) recipe of the shower cleaner that is made with a mix of Dawn liquid soap and vinegar? This mix works so well on my tub, it has changed my life! But it smells terrible, and it feels toxic.
Thank you once again! and keep up the great work!
Hey Ig, I’m so glad you’re enjoying the blog, and the recipes!! Hmmm, I’ll have to check out the soap and vinegar recipe and see what I can come up with. I’m thinking you could probably replace the Dawn with Sal Suds. Castile soap and vinegar don’t mix, but Sal Suds is perfectly fine to mix with vinegar.
I see where a couple people commented about replacing the castile soap with Sal’s Suds. I just wandered over here after reading your post about why you prefer Sal’s Suds for dishwashing to see about that very thing. I love this laundry detergent recipe and have been using a more concentrated version of it for several years. But sometimes I do feel like it could use a boost. And the biggest frustration I sometimes have is battling odors in clothes – mainly ones that get air dried. I read once that it’s because these natural recipes use soaps instead of detergents and so it doesn’t strip the fabric of all the junk the same way a detergent does. I’m wondering if switching to Sal’s Suds would help my problem. But I’m just curious as to why you choose castile for laundry and not Sal’s Suds. Thanks for your input!
Hey Tessa, Great question! Sal Suds is a detergent versus a soap (chemical composition), so it works really well for tough jobs: grease, really tough stains, etc. When it comes to dishes, I don’t think castile soap works very well for tackling grease, so I turn to Sal Suds.
I definitely think you could use Sal Suds to make a homemade laundry soap versus castile soap, but you won’t need as much Sal Suds. Sal Suds produces a ton of bubbles (suds), so my concern in the washing machine is the bubbling issue. I’m not sure exactly how much Sal Suds would work best in this recipe. You could try soaking the clothes in a bit of Sal Suds in a sink or bucket, and then washing the clothes in the washing machine.
Another option for providing that extra boost in the laundry is Oxi-Clean. There are a couple of decent organic brands (BioKleen) and I have a recipe here on the blog: https://livesimply.me/2015/08/13/homemade-oxi-clean-like-laundry-booster/.
Hi Kristin, I look forward to trying this recipe. I made another one and it works but is really messy! It gets too thick and I have to keep adding water. I love the dry recipe and have used it for about 3 years. I won’t go back to store bought!
Love your website!
Awesome, Sue! I hope you love this variation. I’m so glad you’re enjoying the blog, too!